 |
| Royal Palace with Royal Residence in Back on Right |
Back in Phnom Penh we finally managed to visit the Royal Palace, home of the current king of Cambodia. It took us several days to get in to visit because of some unusual practices at the palace. It’s hard to believe they still have royalty after the horrors of Pot Pot. But the king is alive, very much respected and still very active in Cambodian life.
On our first attempt to visit the palace, we learned that they would not take credit cards for the $10 US entrance fee, something that we have not seen in any other Asian country. On our second try, the palace was closed due to the bi-monthly practice of the king giving out food to monks and the poor.
 |
| Main Gate of Royal Palace |
On our third visit, we were refused entry because Carolann’s shoulders were covered only by a shawl. Based on our experiences in Thailand, Malaysia, Bali and China, Carolann had dressed respectfully with knees and arms covered. But it turned out that a shawl was not allowed. We pointed out several other more scantily clad women with bare arms and legs, but to no avail—the guards would not budge. So again we went back to our hotel, hotter and dissatisfied for a third time. We later learned that, in the past, groups of Chinese tourists had visited with shawls covering their bare shoulders only to remove the shawls once inside. So they banned shawls outright.
 |
| Elephant Entrance |
On the fourth try, Carolann wore a long-sleeved, much warmer shirt! But we were successful!
The ornate main gate of the Royal Palace faces east and the Mekong River, which was used in the past by official visitors who arrived by boat. You’ll note that the gate is large enough for elephants to pass through, which is how the king and other dignitaries travelled back then. Apparently, horses weren’t practical because they couldn’t plow fields. In one of the photos below, you might notice a building with high stairs. This is the building the king used for climbing onto the elephants.
 |
| Elephant Stand with Platform on Right |
The walled palace grounds contain several large buildings clad in gold and marble and roofed with brilliant green and yellow tiles, which I love. The gardens are in a formal French style. Not surprising since Cambodia signed a treaty of protection with France in 1863 and was basically a French colony until 1953.
 |
| Blue, Green and Gold Tiles of Elephant Stand |
A combination of Hindu and Buddhist beliefs and practices are in evidence at the palace—both religions are celebrated here on different holy days—even though the present king and the country are Buddhist. The structures feature a lot of Hindu iconography and architectural features because the palace was built by a Hindu king in the year 1866. Formal costumes and dress showcased in one building can be modified to suit the religion of the day’s celebration.
 |
| Cambodian Royal Palace |
The main Throne Hall is a cross-shaped building crowned with three gold spires and stunning gold figures—guardian angels and Garudas. The central, 59-metre spire is topped with the white, four-faced head of Brahma, the creator god in Hinduism. Our guide explained that even today many in Cambodia (mainly uneducated farmers and peasants he said) believe the King is descended from the gods, which is why Brahma is at the top of the Throne Hall.
 |
| Four-faced Head of Brahma |
Stylized Garuda figures are prominently featured around the roof of the Throne Hall and are symbolic of the legendary bird god lifting up and protecting the palace. Garuda is an iconic symbol of the king's duty and power, an insignia of royalty. The original wood carved figures have been replaced with ones made of concrete.
 |
| Garuda Bird god |
Unlike the Apsara dancers you see at Angkor Wat, the Throne Hall roof is also adorned with angel figures, many covered in gold leaf.
 |
| Apsara Angel |
I wasn’t allowed to photograph the interior of the large Throne Hall but it had a ceiling covered in a painted version of the Ramayana, a classic Hindu story of war and love. A golden throne sat at one end of the hall with chairs in front and to the side of it for visiting dignitaries. It is still used today when foreign officials and heads of state visit Cambodia.
The king resides in another palatial building also adorned with gold at the back of the large compound and when he’s in residence a blue flag is flown. It was flying when we visited but we didn’t see him and he didn’t offer us any food.
 |
| Close up of Centre Spire of Palace Apsara and Garudas |
The other main building on the site is the Silver Pagoda, which I expected to be clad in silver, not gold. But it is actually famous for its silver floor. The Pagoda is inlaid with more than 5,000 solid silver tiles, each one-foot square! Imagine cleaning the tarnish off that! It is also full of gold pieces and a giant one-piece green “Emerald Buddha” studded with rubies and diamonds. Our guide told us it was a real emerald, but Wikipedia says it is probably green Baccarat crystal. Multiple cases around the perimeter house hundreds of gold and silver Buddhas given to the pagoda by individuals wanting to associate themselves with the giant Buddha and its blessings.
 |
| Silver Palace with Solid Silver Floor Tiles |
All in all, I’m glad we persisted and finally visited the palace and by the fourth try we had actually learned enough to arrive early before the crowds. So as we exited, hordes of Chinese tourists led by bull-horn bellowing guides invaded the tranquility of the palace grounds making no pretence of the respect the guards had enforced upon us. Bare arms and legs were in blatant display. Our guide just shrugged.
 |
| At the Side of the Royal Palace |
No comments:
Post a Comment